The Rossi (and the Short North of Columbus)

It is funny.  Since my life has led me Ohio-ward (certainly more than the 30+ years preceding), I have been to Columbus (well – bedroom communities therein) so much, but I have seen so little of the city itself.  So it was with a bit of excitement that I did get to hit the Short North area of the city – a bit from downtown and apparently where the “cool kids” are going.  Some of the highlights:

  • The Short North reminded me of Bridge Street in Huntsville, Alabama or Atlantic Station in Atlanta (well, allegedly – it popped up after my reign there ended).  It was fine, had a lot of the usual young people, girls in short skirts, douchebags in striped dress shirts.  Lot of the sorts of pubs where I’d hang out and fancier locales where I decidedly would not.  But it also looked new – not like a mall, but sort of like it was all built at once.  It felt developed – I guess where I live in Arlington, the Shirlington area would be a mini-sort of version.  Culture fabrication of a sort.
  • The North Market though, just off the Short North part of High Street – that’s the real deal.  The market was very evocative of Quincy Market in Boston, just under one roof this festival of foods and groceries.  Hell, there was a Jeni’s Ice Cream – and Jeni’s is pretty clearly the best ice cream that has ever been developed in the United States – so that is a plus already.  However, the other markets all looked wonderful – I wish I had a chance to get lunch there, but some of the key German-Polish places and the Italian stuff looked like the real thing.
  • We did stop at a fairly high end joint in the area – The Rossi – a fancypants sort of Classic American themed place.  Among the specials was one of the better butternut squash soups I have had.  The soup was not overly thick like a puree or an applesauce, and had a hint of heat – did a nice job avoiding cloying sweetness.  It offset a pretty sad charcuterie board that my wife got.  You know there’s a problem when the waitress could not identify the meats on the plate (and frankly they were salamis – whoopee).  But really where my heart sank was the Croque Madame I ordered.  How do you make a Croque Madame and skimp on the gruyere?  I mean, I don’t give a crap about the ham – there has to be some, but I don’t need to be overloaded like I was at a family restaurant.  However, why you order a croque or a Monte Cristo, or another artery stopping grilled cheese, is for stringy, unctuous melty goodness.  You have to be able to see the gooieness and determined that this is a fair price for possibly dying from a coronary later that evening.  It has to create that Pavlovian response.  Instead here we got a little cheese – enough to show that it exists, but an entirely unbalanced thing.  Also, the egg was overdone – the yolk was set which also undercut any unctuous possibility.  Of course this is a restaurant, and so we have folks who are giant fraidy cats about cooking eggs properly.  Oh well.  That said, the other dishes at the table (a salmon salad in particular) looked nice.  It is always hard to get fired up about a high end “American” restaurant – and this is not the place to start – but I am sure most people would enjoy it.

Alaska 2011 – Part III

No need for much verbage here.  After leaving Talkeetna the trip took us to Seward.  Unfortunately we used a motor coach and not the railroad for this leg – the driver was awfully chirpy.  It went well beyond homey banter and veered right into wildly irritating.  But the outcome was getting to Seward and a trip on a day cruise of Kenai Fjord’s National Park.  A few more pictures of the Exit Glacier will be added – but we have to make that trip first.  Really, outside of Anchorage, the entire state is one postcard after another – at least in the summer.  The food we had was all tourist geared and thus kind of mediocre – but really it is a minor quibble.  Besides, it gives us an incentive to come home!

The voyage begins - we are such a seafaring people

Funny that America's National Symbol is so hard to find in America (even if it wasn't endangered)

Otters so near the ship!

Kenai Fjords, viewing glaciers from the boat

A hard man readying for a hard voyage

 

As we rolled into the cove, we saw a total festival of gulls

 

Sea Lions in a Bangladesh-like throng

Forget the names of these birds, but they are the Northern Hemisphere's answer to the penguin. Except they can fly, but many of the other properties (look, walk) are similar.

Puffin Fresh!

Considering how murky (nutrient rich not polluted) the water is, that I could see a jellyfish was a mild surprise

Approaching a tidewater glacier

TIMBERRRRRR!!! Or whatever you say when an ice-slide occurs in a glacier ...

The camera was too slow when a few porpoises came near the boat. Fortunately no such problem occured when a pod of orcas showed up near the end of our voyage.

 

Alaska 2011 – Part II

As the trip rolls into Fairbanks and Talkeetna, some more random notes:

  1. Fairbanks is a significant city certainly.  The University of Alaska at Fairbanks is the only place in the state you can get yourself a PhD.  We were there a couple of nights.  First off, the River’s Edge resort cottages in Fairbanks is a very nice little hotel.  It’s no Mandarin Oriental, but the little cottages are nice – made me feel like a homeowner however briefly.
  2. Also, we got to Fairbanks from Denali via the Alaska Railroad – something we used to get to Talkeetna as well.  Bottom line, railroad is THE way to travel.  It’s a shame that … well, let’s not veer into such naked politics, right?
  3. Our first morning in Fairbanks took us to the Creamer’s Field and Waterfowl Preserve.  This is basically a huge ass farm which attracts a lot of birds.  In particular, we found Canadian Geese and Sandhill Cranes, in great numbers.  Amazing how unbothered they were by us, until some dude with a dog walked by.
  4. We went up to Coldfoot, past the Arctic Circle, via a twin engine plane.  This was appropriately awesome, and the drive back south included just seeing the particulars of what makes the area tick.  The most amazing upset of course, was that the Arctic Circle was by far the nicest weather we had to date, with dry and in the 70s.  This trip also got us checked off for the Gates of the Arctic National Park – a park that I could not ever think of visiting in any other context.
  5. After the extensive adventure in Fairbanks, the Railroad took us to Talkeetna, a small town with a spiffy setup – and a cute downtown (or whatever you call the place to be in a town of 800).  This featured the best meal of the trip, a dinner at the Denali Brewing Company.  The sweet potato fries were lovely as was the blonde ale.  If you end up here … somehow … it is worth it.  The free taxi to the hotel was nice also.
  6. Morning featured a sled dog demonstration.  The yard where the dogs were seemed like a hell from a hoarding TV show or something with all of the dogs strewn about.  But they lived well – though in athletic training.  This must have been what East German Olympic training must have been like.  The guide was very funny.
Photographic evidence herein as usual is below.  Final leg takes us to Seward and the Kenai Fjords National Park.

The Denali Alaska Railroad Depot had some weird buildings, like where my dad is sitting.

A view from the twin engine

A view from the twin engine

The plane! The plane!

Coldfoot, Alaska is a legitimate outpost. Here is the inn, next to the cafe. The post office trailer and inn trailer are nearby - as are a gaggle of mosquitoes.

The Arctic Circle where 66-33 is. Amazingly, 70s when we were there.

Standing on permafrost, you take a hole like this and reach in, and you feel an ice block. It's really trippy.

The world's most famous plumbing? It's the Alaskan Pipeline, an infrastructure marvel like the Interstate Highway System that America seems rather incapable of now.

My mom was whining about not seeing a bear the whole trip aside from models in hotel lobbies (seriously, the hotel lobbies we stayed at all felt like elks lodges or something). This quieted her.

A Theodore Roosevelt sighting. I'll let that caption marinate for a minute ...

The sled dog demo in Talkeetna. Wow did this place smell ripe! But the dogs were magnificent, and the training they are given is impressive. Our guide is an iditarod racer.

Doggies in action. We had a turn but hard to take photos from the cockpit.

Puppies - that is all

Alaska 2011 – Part I

Some random notes from three days in the great white beyond …

  1. The flight to Anchorage was not bad, with the usual caveats about modern American airline service. (I know the meals are not ideal, but Delta’s low salt peanuts take serious liberties with the term “low”).  The flight from Detroit was on one of Delta’s older 737s.  This is one of the deals with 3 seats per side of the aisle.  My side had me, LG and a nice old man with fish suspenders.  That he was nice was a non-issue, but that he was nice and a large 6’4″ man was.  He was not fat (and he looked like he was fitting inside a shoebox himself comfortwise) but it made a 6 hour flight feel like six days.
  2. The drive to Denali is largely inland – the conifers are lovely, but it lacked the whales and neat scenery of the drive to Seward the last time I was this far up.
  3. Denali itself is both a tourist trap of sorts – in particular the hotel staff at the Grande Denali Lodge left much to be desired in terms of awareness and whatnot – but the part is breathtaking.  The tour of the park gives a good sense of the Arctic Tundra at 3000 feet, and the clouds came out clear enough to see the McKinley peak.
  4. I know restaurants fear lawsuits, but overshooting targets on seafood makes me sad.  But overall this has been lovely.  Fairbanks next.

A beaver dam on the top left - precision American ingenuity

Not sure of the scientific name. Let's call it the Mammaryshroom until then ...

A clear view of the summit. An amazing, humbling height.

Figures we would eat at a place with this sort of thing at the door.

Do you recall, the least famous caribou of them all?

The Ohio State Fair and Other Travel Notes

Some picked up pieces from the latest trek to Ohio:

- The first major day took us to the Ohio State Fair.  It is one of the deals that seems grander in a childhood mind’s eye than it really is.  That said, there is a sky ride and a ferris wheel – granted the sky ride looked low enough that a fall might not even seriously injure anybody.  The fair was appropriately impressive with fried foods and giant turkey legs.  Indeed, if you have a significant other lady who will tear into a turkey leg shamelessly in front of you – you have a keeper.

Hampshire Pigs Racing

Pot Bellied Pigs - A slower, fatter pace

The other highlight besides the pig races – which yes, we wagered on (hey, it was only a dollar!) – had to be the petting zoo, which had a variety of animals, many whom seem in awfully close quarters for this sort of thing.

Pygmy Goats - Definitely the Petting Zoo Star

I think we can figure out what this one is.

Indigenous Ohio Zebra? Wait, what??!!!

- Day 2 took us to the staggering Hocking Hills in the Southeast part of the state.  This is a lovely state park which shows the hilly part of Ohio – which I actually never realized exists.  Compared to the north in the state which is as flat as any 80s R&B star hairdo, we got some legitimate hiking.

A view near the upper falls. Definitely the itch to bathe in the water. (considering it was so hot and humid)

A view of the flow of the water from the upper falls

Old Man Cave- Though I did not see any plumbing or FIOS for an old man to live there.

Ash Cave - Although less a gave than a crazy neat rock formation

- The final day took us to the North and Upper Sandusky.  The restaurant was The Village.  Given that I was arguably the youngest person there, it is safe to surmise that this restaurant was for the crusty old dudes demographics.  The menu did not belie this notion with the prominent inclusion of Cube Steak and a lot of other Real America treats which are homey but seem allergic to seasoning.  That said, I got a broasted chicken sandwich and broasted chicken is pretty darn awesome genrally.  Broasting, where the chicken is pressure cooked in oil – creates a crispy crust and a moist chicken while avoiding the greasiness that can hurt lesser fried chickens.  I am not sure whether the Village was good at broasting or if broasting is just that foolproof.

Maximum India at the Kennedy Center

Checking out the Maximum India exhibit at the Kennedy Exhibit – I was curious what I would get out of it.  There is an element of busman’s holiday I suppose when I do these sorts of things – ethnic “checking the box” and whatnot – although it’s not like I am any sort of real expert on India (jeez, I cannot name all the states in the country).  I have my walls of cynicism up – sure, they’d come down for the dance program we attended, but we’re talking about the entire exhibit too – and perhaps that is as much an indictment of yours truly.  Full disclosure, no?

Before the actual concert thingy, we started out exploring the entire setup.  The Millenium Stage, where they ran the normal free daily concert, had the sounds of Rajasthan.  The performance seemed fine – although the sound was poor, it sounded like we were in a tunnel of some kind.  But hey, that sort of thing still is about the concert – there is no way to generalize about the entire month of India celebration on the basis of that.

Of course, the other exhibits gave me a chance to grossly generalize – and … well I don’t want to dissuade intrepid DC readers from going.  After all, more culture is better than less – and it’s free.  However, as someone with a stake in the outcome – considering the remarkable resources (the Indian Embassy par exemple) behind it, the cultural exhibits are a massive disappointment.  What is interesting is that the exhibits somehow managed to combine two flaws that seem incompatible: 1) they provided little contextual information, so it was hard to learn why the pieces mattered, 2) the exhibits themselves were not particularly interesting so that what they did seem to offer would only be startlingly revelatory to either really old people or total goobers.  (pardon me if you are either)

An example of the former was their exploration of jewelry and gemcraft.  The exhibit was small and potentially interesting.  However, there were only two placards covering about 15 different items in total.  How can one navigate each object meaningfully?  If the National Gallery of art were run that way, we’d see ten paintings and then a small sign in another room saying “BTW, those were rembrandts.  He’s famus.”

But then the latter becomes a problem in something like the kaleidoscope of crafts.  This exhibit was ambitious – showing craft items in the form of a busy thoroughfare in India on the backs of bicycles and whatnots.  First of all, the “busy street” motif seemed to serve no particular purpose.  There were some videos displaying bustle, but I am not sure whether it gave atmosphere.  (of course, having been to India many times, the bustle provides the atmosphere of claustrophobia so I am not sure that is something you want to sell anyway)  The objects themselves were interesting on a surface level (and one Krishna story that I did not know), but really it was mostly unmemorable.  The neatest part was a map where the regional craft is matched geographically:

A mosaic of India - sure it has an "Indians are people too vibe", but it was pretty cool live.

There were also a lot of fans on display – yippee.

That said, the concert was pretty good.  The dancing was a duo of Odissi and Bharathanatyam classical dancing styles.  The music was workmanlike – there were no gross errors or anything, but the vocals were not of the Nithyashree level.  The dancing was good – the subtle Odissi style was a stark contrast to the Kabuki sort of expressionism that is emblematic of Bharathanatyam when the two dancers were performing similar movements.  The playbill still offered not quite enough context for the audience to understand exactly why it matters – or really why this particular performance was put together in this way.  But the art stands up on its own, and on that front it was worthwhile.

I am sure the concerts and lectures and seminars are cool and worthwhile – or at least some of them are.  However, the rest of this exhibit seemed to be fairly surface – a surprising lack of intellectual curiosity or pride from the Embassy and the other organizers.  They took this for granted.  I would never tell anyone not to get more culture, but there is NO way that Maximum India maximized India.

India – Musings in the South, Part 2

Well, if you chose to click on this barren virtual wasteland, then you probably have seen the Tiruchi section of India travelogue.  Of course, the trip also took us to Tanjavur, seat of the Chola Dynasty and where my family originated from.  The key attraction in Tanjavur of course is the Brihadiswarha Temple which was built by the Cholas.  The temple is on the UN register, and so has the funding to keep it both well preserved as well as basically free to tour and photograph (outside of the inner sancta):

Brihadiswara Temple - from the front

OK - I HAD to take one of these

Besides the temple and the Chola history, we got to drink up a bit of family history – including a view of the really humble beginnings.  We got to visit the home and neighborhood where my father came from.  What is striking, when you see the place, is how even going the the States was any sort of theoretical construct to him.  That is, that it even could ever exist as a dream or whatnot is absolutely stunning.

This alley is where the family lived along with several other families. The people who live in the house my Dad grew up in have been there for over 50 years ... so leaving is not high probability.

The house. Much constructed since the olde days.

Entering the humble abode ...

A shoe area, but used to not be there.

Located between houses, this was the entrance the servants would use to clean up ... well, the business. The open sewer is still around - and at times, the smell did not escape us.

This was the more emotional part of the trip – it is still hard to fathom how I am here typing a post on this.  Just amazing how far away that all was.

India – Musings in the South, Part 1

Well, why no posting during the holidays?  Blame it on India.  Of course the trip was appropriately lovely.  It is nice to get caught up with the extended family.  Indeed my eighty two year old grandmother feeding us until we had to tap out UFC-style was a consistent scene over the two weeks.  Of course, coming with a family visit is a lack of travelogue for Week 1 – aside from taking in some carnatic music concerts (and sleeping through one as jet lag destroyed me).

* A quick note though.  The food of course was wonderful – not just because it was homemade and whatever.  But Indian vegetarian cooking – unlike most of the bilge that passes as vegan/vegetarian in the States, does not start with a thesis that a protein needs to be substituted.  They never ate meat, so there is no horrific meat substitute used.  Without having to genuflect to the meat altar, the imagination is free to run wild  - and flavors are not frowned upon!

That said, the second week did contain trips to Tiruchi and Tanjawur, the seat of the Chola Dynasty which had a very long reign of prominence in South Indian rule.  It also is where my family is from.   Tanjawur will be in a later post.

Tiruchi

Tiruchi contained a few magnificent temples, one of them the Srirangam Vishnu temple:

The tower ... with a few more drawings that sculptutres, the tiers look almost Mayan

We descend through tower after tower to the inner temple

A chicken - yep the stores and stuff on the way to the temple have much around.

The second big temple in Tiruchi is the Thiruvanakkaval Siva temple.  This is a more water themed temple, located on the banks of the Cauveri river.  The theme is underlined by running water in the inner sanctum (not a Stygian level where we were rowing or anything, but it is clear).  It is also appropriately magnificent.  I wish I could communicate the fascinating inner sanctum (and the bats screeching) but alas, such are the rules of the building.

Note the more intricate carvings than the first temple.

Finally, Tiruchi is where my father went to college – and he remarked about MalaKottla, the Ganesh temple sitting on top of a hill which creates a magnificent overlook over the otherwise rather flat city.  The best aerial shots were there.  In addition, we saw the outside of Saint Joseph’s, the college he went to, as well as the church of its namesake.

The Siva temple also part of the hilltop.

Luray Caverns

Well, I had been to Luray before – when I was a kid.  So it seemed appropriate, that finally at some point – we would have made our way to one of the tourist staples of the area.  It is an interesting amalgam of lovely nature and crass tourism.  This is not an untouched National Park so much as a lovely fascinating set of cave formations surrounded by a lot of bric a brac made in places like China and Pakistan.  But what amazing sights the cavers have!

Reflecting Lake

Another great shot of the lake

This column is the Persephone Column, though that was butchered by the audio tour.

The Car and Carriage Museum also come with the admission, and that provided some interesting stuff.  The classic (and I mean like Model T classic) always provide some fun.  They even have the wheel – though I doubt its authenticity.

The wheel? Really - this isn't authentic?

The day ended with a meal at Artisan’s Grill in central Luray.  Usually these captive audience sort of restaurants are discouraging.  As such – especially given it’s typical American bent – my expectations were very low.  Lo and behold, this place was about ten times as good as I anticipated.  My oyster sub was cooked nicely without a cloying amount of tartar sauce.  Their desserts were homemade and the ice cream was locally sourced – and my own choice, choclolate pecan, was unbelievably rich and deep in flavour.  A real pleasant treat.